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Dior Winter 2022

“Una silueta, siluetas [que] aparecen y se imponen cada vez más a la imaginación. Los bocetos fijan este trabajo de la mente […], no como una composición estática; no, son siluetas en movimiento.»  Christian Dior

“Quería sumergirme en los archivos, en la pureza de los inicios de la Casa, en su ímpetu original. Nos fijamos en las primeras colecciones y nos centramos en la arquitectura, utilizando estos elementos y transformándolos casi instintivamente en piezas masculinas modernas, siempre con esa alegría de vivir que está en el corazón de las creaciones de Christian Dior.»  Kim Jones

Una mañana de invierno en París, en el puente Alexandre-III… A medida que cambia la luz, emergen siluetas en movimiento que reflejan los colores del cielo y el paso del tiempo, la historia de Christian Dior -la Maison y los hombres- y la de Kim Jones, directora artística de las colecciones masculinas de Dior.

Los looks reflejan el paso del tiempo y el continuum de los diseñadores que vinculan el pasado, el presente y el futuro de la Casa; de femenino a masculino, de flor-mujer a flor-hombre, una historia viva en perpetuo movimiento, un homenaje a la herencia. El aroma del lirio de los valles llena el aire, un puente simbólico y atemporal entre la naturaleza y la cultura, el amor y la suerte tan queridos por Dior.

El 12 de febrero de 1947, Christian Dior presentó su primera colección; su New Look cambió la moda para siempre. En este año del 75 aniversario de la casa Dior, Kim Jones entabla, esta temporada, una conversación suprema y una colaboración con el propio Christian Dior.

Aquí, las historias de los dos hombres se entrelazan: desde los tonos grises y pasteles hasta el encuentro del sastre masculino británico y el sastre de alta costura francés a través de la nueva silueta cruda y masculina de la chaqueta Bar.

Todo está unificado, de forma llamativa y natural, por el saber hacer atemporal de los talleres franceses, desde la exuberancia de los bordados, inspirados en los archivos –desplegados de manera sorprendente, con una lujosa despreocupación– hasta la ropa deportiva contemporánea y materiales técnicos para prendas exteriores trabajados en un sentido inesperadamente formal y elegante. Cada pieza combina practicidad, formal e informal, y encarna una historia que cobra vida para una vida cotidiana fácil y contemporánea, sin perder nunca de vista su esencial alegría de vivir.

Los signos y símbolos emblemáticos de Monsieur Dior proliferan a lo largo de la colección: la estrella, la rosa, el bastón, el leopardo, el lirio de los valles y la cadena unen el pasado con el presente, en particular a través de las joyas. Aquí, el brazalete de cadena de diamantes y esmeraldas de Victoire de Castellane se une a las extravagancias de Yoon Ahn en un nuevo enfoque decorativo masculino.

Esta personalización inesperada continúa en los derbies enjoyados, que contrastan con las sandalias Dior by Birkenstock, más utilitarias, una nueva colaboración de esta temporada. Los bolsos también exploran la tensión entre lo práctico y lo ornamental; el bolso Saddle se une al nuevo Dior Corolle Tote y un clutch vertical más estructurado, mientras que los sombreros de Stephen Jones celebran la alegría y la precisión, en particular su versión revisada de la boina masculina, el modelo Doris. Stephen Jones también celebra un importante aniversario: veinticinco años como diseñador de los sombreros de la Maison; también representa este vínculo entre el pasado, el presente y el futuro de Dior.

Más información: Dior France

The Dior Winter 2022-2023 Men’s Show:

47 thoughts on “Dior Winter 2022

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